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五星級評論家 蔡東豪

2010-03-25  NM





兒童心理學是一門深奧學問,即使 是天天見着,一同生活的兒子,我也不敢說自己了解他的內心世界。某日兒子跟我說︰「我想做一個Food Critic。」他懂得「Critic」的讀音,我已喜出望外;他沒可能了解「Critic」的意義吧。小朋友幻想自己長大後做不同職業,十分正常,本欄 讀者或許記得我的兒子不久前想當指揮家和消防員,這些職業小朋友容易理解,但何來「Food Critic」?

有一日我找到答案。我陪兒 子看他近日至愛的Pixar動畫《五星級大鼠》(Ratatouille),其中一個角色是食評家Anton。Anton外表冷酷,性格深沉,老氣橫秋, 怎看也不討好。我在想為何兒子會喜愛這角色時,在電影尾聲看到Anton的一段獨白,這段獨白把我攝着。兒子可能覺得我很怪,為什麼不斷重複一看再看,原 因是我要把獨白的每一個字寫下來。這段獨白我不敢翻譯,這是原文︰

In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face, is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defense of the new.

The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations, the new needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto: Anyone can cook. But I realize, only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry for more.

 

過去幾年,每星期讀林沛理的評論文章,每篇都要慢慢咀 嚼,對評論這門學問開始有皮毛認識,可肯定自己欠缺評論「評論」的能力。在極速資訊的網絡年代,我們要面對的難題,是資訊太多,但資訊的質素參差。太快和 太多的資訊造成人云亦云,令人不加思索,不再重視建基於事實和知識的評論,謬誤很快變成真理。

評論當然有它的價值,但評論家須時時刻刻面對 的難題,是應怎自處。Anton獨白中的一句︰「We risk very little yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment.」最令評論家入心入肺。評論家很容易墮入一個虛榮空間,遠離謙卑,以為世界上最欠缺的就是由他寫的一篇評論。

我曾以寫評 論為職業,過去一段不短時間以評論為興趣,可能撞板次數多,對評論家應怎自處有一點體會。我不時警剔自己,自己在媒體擁有一片發聲園地,是一種榮幸,評論 家評論之餘須懂得感恩,這園地來得不易,代表着園地主人和受眾的默許。評論家不可把自己看得太高或太低,須確保自己的文字有分量,同時也不可高估自己文字 的分量。

怎樣成為一個對得住自己和他人的評論家,除了要看《五星級大鼠》和讀林沛理的文章,我推介一本小說 ── Jay Rayner的《The Apologist》(美國版書名是《Eating Crow》)。Rayner是英國《觀察家報》的食評家,這本小說的主角也是食評家 ── 不可一世的巴錫 (Marc Basset)。故事開始是一間餐廳老闆在焗爐自殺,焗爐門外貼着一篇巴錫寫的食評。餐廳老闆的死令巴錫覺悟,他的文字殺死了一個人,他向餐廳老闆的遺孀 道歉。遺孀原諒了巴錫,而他在道歉過程中得到無限快感。他開始向身邊的人道歉,為他過去犯的錯道歉。

巴錫愈道歉愈起勁,他的道歉能力受賞 識,被聯合國聘為首席道歉者,辦公室名稱是UN Office of Apology and Reconciliation,從納粹大屠殺到越戰到奴隸歷史,由巴錫代表全世界去道歉 ……。我只說了這故事的一半。

我建議所有評論家有 空的話應讀這本小說,檢討自己之同時,順帶幽這世界(包括自己)一默。

蔡東豪Tony Tsoi

現任上市公司精電國際行政總 裁,他曾任職投資銀行,在《信報》以筆名原復生撰寫財經專欄,對投資及求知有無限渴求,習慣早上四時起床寫作找樂趣。



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